dauz
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Posts: 14
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Post by dauz on Jul 7, 2009 19:48:20 GMT -5
So I'm trying to work a style out that is both effective and practical for dag, and i honestly don't like burrowing weapons so far, let alone still feel kinda silly randomly joining in in the fighting lol. Anywho, if anyone has the skill or will to build something for me it would be greatly appreciated. (and of course i am willing to pay for such services) What I'm looking for is something with a stabbing tip that will hold up to alot of abuse, double edged and fairly light, modeled after something such as (insert random image ) I don't need the fancy bits for the hand guard, but things I'm looking for are a crossgaurd that is sturdy and a finger hook as both are very useful in my style and the finger hook is crucial given the severe nerve damage in my hands that has hurt my ability to grip firmly. and preferably a blade length between 38-42 inches I'm also considering an offhand modeled after a main gauche, or possible using the offhand cloak. Depending on the rules (which i will admit i don't have down) i wouldn't mind having a small shield that would be slightly wider and equal to the length of my left forearm, but again i am still unsure as to what will translate best to dag style fighting. Sooo if anyone wants to help me i will lerv you forever, but unless your exceptionally pretty it will have to remain a strictly platonic love
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Carneth
RP Architect
Black Legion of the LoD and Brother of the Bri'Ak-Duraz
Posts: 189
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Post by Carneth on Jul 7, 2009 21:32:08 GMT -5
Just letting you know, with the blade length you want it is most likely (I could be wrong) to be impossible to build a sword that size that is light. You could maybe get something close to it with very special and super-light foam, but I don't know where to get it or how much it would be. The finger hook and crossguard are possible, but with a requirement for lightness the basic materials will probably get you a 25-30 inch blade at best (someone correct me if they know better.)
The biggest problems are this: Even with 1/2 in. PVC, you need at least two layers of foam in order for the weapon to be considered safe. Also, every hand-held weapon (excluding javelins) must not flex more than 45 degrees. As far as I can tell, any type of reinforcement will add weight. Also, a stab tip will probably require a wide-ish blade in order to maintain stability, plus stabbing tips tend to rip off if you slash much with the tip of the blade. What this all really depends on is: what is your definition of "light?" (keep in mind every blue/single-handed weapon must weight at least 12 oz.)
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dauz
New Member
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Post by dauz on Jul 8, 2009 1:26:56 GMT -5
I'm not all that worried about a blade actually being the same width as a rapier, i understand that the reality of that is just silly given the foam. Long as its stay close or narrower then a standard blade.
As far as weight, I'll have to learn and adjust, but anything between 1.8lbs-3lbs would be ideal, and heavier is not that big a deal if i have a finger hook to adjust the weighting on my hand. If lighter is possible go for it, but i wouldn't want to sacrifice the durability. Would suck to have to get a new one made every 2 weeks lol.
Also if you have an opinion on the crazy shield bracer idea and if it is legal under Dag rules or not, though i may want to try it anyways just to see if something like that is effect with or without an offhand weapon.
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Carneth
RP Architect
Black Legion of the LoD and Brother of the Bri'Ak-Duraz
Posts: 189
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Post by Carneth on Jul 8, 2009 8:33:19 GMT -5
Just for clarification, when you say standard blade do you mean a standard foam sword?
I wouldn't worry about the durability. Properly constructed, you can beat on a blade for a good long while without it needing repair. It seems that weight isn't a problem then, but are you set on your length? I'm just stressing that a long blade means more flex, which isn't good. Also, I kind of consider a 28 or 30 inch blade to be pretty long. Still, there are ways of making it not bend as much. However, I would suggest going for lightness (12oz.-16oz.) because a light sword makes it a lot easier to fight.
As for your shield, it's perfectly legal. Technically it would qualify as a buckler. But the rules just say "A shield is a shield is a shield. If the fighter can wear a shield, it counts." or something like that. We only get to use one shield at a time though.
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Post by Stubbie on Jul 8, 2009 18:22:51 GMT -5
I would quote the new MoA for shield rules, but here is the link: www.digitalbonsai.com/dagrules-draft . As I understand it, the consensus on checking shields is currently that as long as SOMEWHERE on that shield you could place a 12" x 12" disc and it be totally within the shield....your good. As for the style you are talking about wearing it, if I understand you correctly, there are several who float around using one like that. Fury from the Northern Steppes is one, Jari the Dwarf, a renowned Mercenary from out east, is another.
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dauz
New Member
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Post by dauz on Jul 9, 2009 1:39:35 GMT -5
to clerify standard blade, i pretty much mean exactly that, as far as length, i could prolly adjust to something shorter, however the rapier i own (which is sadly still in alaska and prolly slowing getting covered in dust) is a 42 inch blade, so i would perfer to stay on the side of longer then average, but i do agree that weight is going to be an issue, light and fast is good, and more fitting to the style of combat, but im very adjusted to having a large distance and comming cross then in quikly and using the crossgaurd to keep the opposing blade outside. Again though, all things that will prolly have to be adjusted and modified
Now onto the shield thing again, 12X12 at anypoint? i was thinking more along the lines of something not much wider then my forearm, however the idea as i see it in my head has it flaring out near the base of it (elbow). I might have to get out a pen and paper and do some random terrible scetches to see what seems logical for such things.
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Carneth
RP Architect
Black Legion of the LoD and Brother of the Bri'Ak-Duraz
Posts: 189
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Post by Carneth on Jul 9, 2009 9:30:40 GMT -5
Yes, the shield must have a 12-inch diameter. For something rectangular, that means the smallest shield you could use would be a 12-inch-per-side square. If stubbie's right though, you would just need to have the 12-in diameter somewhere, which sounds like it might fit best at end closer to the elbow for your purposes.
Oh, by the way, your Main Gauche idea is also very possible, though if you're using it to turn blows you might want a 1" pvc core to add weight and durability. Plus, as long as it is 12" above the handle, it would count as blue and you could slash as well as stab. i would actually suggest having two weapons if your shield is going to be buckler-sized.
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dauz
New Member
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Post by dauz on Jul 13, 2009 21:09:20 GMT -5
hmm, well the main gouche is something i prolly wouldnt combine with the shield, just beacuse i think it would feel akward, however i wouldnt mind having both anywyas for the sake of trying new things. Also if i use a main gouche (and again prolly running up and sticking my toe on the rules) i was considering using a small cloak tied at the hilt in an attempt to combine claok and main gouche defense styles.
annnd 38" inch is exactly how long would be"Right" for a sword for me, but shorter is all fine and dandy, eventually im am so going to actually have someone get to the crafting part of this seeing as how i dont like showing up to practices randomly and swinging random peoples weapons lol
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Carneth
RP Architect
Black Legion of the LoD and Brother of the Bri'Ak-Duraz
Posts: 189
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Post by Carneth on Jul 15, 2009 21:18:43 GMT -5
Well, personally I'd feel better working WITH you so that you could learn how to make weapons and so that a weapon wouldn't be made and then you decide it's not to your liking. Plus, I feel you get a lot more respect if you can make your own weapons.
Unfortunately, I have never done any work with crossguards or finger hooks. I am unaware of any real rules regarding crossguards, but I woudn't be surprised if certain materials are not allowed. I'm also not the best person to look to if you want stabbing tips. I'm always trying to experiment, but I really need a new method because my old method for stabs tends to tear off. I haven't really needed either of these features personally.
If anyone would like to share advice on stabbing tips and/or crossguards, that would be greatly appreciated.
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dauz
New Member
Posts: 14
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Post by dauz on Jul 26, 2009 1:11:16 GMT -5
yay for progress lol
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Baethor
High Council
Duk'Rik of the Bri'Ak Duraz.
That which does not kill me, has made a tactical error
Posts: 2,234
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Post by Baethor on Aug 12, 2009 20:24:37 GMT -5
FIBERGLASS FIBERGLASS FIBERGLASS.
fiberglass will give you a lightweight weapon that is still stronger then pvc. solid core, 1/4 inch fiberglass is sturdier then most pvc, its what any vet uses believe you me.
kitespar is another good choice, its even lighter then fiberglass (its what edhellen uses for its ultralight models.) but a little more brittle then fiberglass, still more durable then pvc though.
Beyond that any blade with two striking sides must be 3 inches across if memory serves. stabbing tips are a little tricky if you really want one nichtmar could probably give you some tips or kain for that matter.
I'm assuming you want to use a fencing style but i'll tell you now fencing is a HORRIBLE style for dag. i have met one man use it effectivly, and he used to be olympic level in his younger days (incidentally he could move an entire spear length with a single lunge.) the problem with fencing is its really only good against fencing. if you fight anyone with more then 2 or 3 years experiance, single blue against it, we could dam near knock the blade from your hand and whomp you once or twice before you can reset.
also since draw-cuts are not legal in our game fencing has one more drawback. I would suggest learning a more adaptable european combat style with sword and shield.
if you insist on a fencing style i suggest having a single edged sword, then your flat only has to be 2 and a half inches across (i think, someone may want to check the rules on that for me)
stabbing tips are a little easier to apply since you can use the last blade layer to stabilize the tip and you shave off a bit more weight. if you were to use say use a fiberglass core and only one side you could have a near 40 inch weapon that ways just over 12 oz if made right. Then i'd suggest an all tape model pommel to help counterweight it. crossgaurds are annoying, because they get struck so often you'll find yourself having to replace it more often then not, however basket hilt styles allow you to slide a blade away, protect your hand and dont need to be replaced nearly as often.
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MacDimm
Meat Shield
Fearghus MacDimm of the White Bear Clan
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Post by MacDimm on Aug 13, 2009 12:23:50 GMT -5
Are you familiar with the pappenheimer-style sword? It was a trasition period sword between the arming sword and the rapier, which was designed to be used both for cutting through light armor and for stabbing like the rapier. I believe it looked somewhat like this I believe it involved it's own set of fighting style, and was sometimes accompanied by a buckler. Not so sure on that, but still seems like a fun way to get in your rapier idea and still have a chance at cutting some people up on the field. Hope it helps
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