Batu
Servant
Patience. Discipline. Calculation. Honor.
Posts: 76
|
Post by Batu on Sept 21, 2010 11:35:55 GMT -5
I'm looking around for leather pieces (I don't want to break down and go with Hobby Lobby) as I want to get as much as full pieces, instead of scraps. And buying something off a specialty SCA, LARP, or other re-enactment site is out of the question. Also I am inexperienced with leather working. Can I get tips, sites/stores to go to, or even an estimate on what something like this would cost to build: www.maskworld.com/english/products/costumes/armour--280/full-armor--2800/long-leather-brigandine-black--104360The helmet I want to build I think I can do with relative ease. But assistance would be awesome. (Also hope to come to for another practice real soon!)
|
|
|
Post by ziglerrobertson on Sept 21, 2010 15:11:20 GMT -5
Tandy Leather
|
|
MacDimm
Meat Shield
Fearghus MacDimm of the White Bear Clan
Posts: 259
|
Post by MacDimm on Sept 21, 2010 20:06:13 GMT -5
Landwerlens on South and Illinois. Cheaper in my experience than Tandy.
|
|
Batu
Servant
Patience. Discipline. Calculation. Honor.
Posts: 76
|
Post by Batu on Sept 22, 2010 15:32:35 GMT -5
I appreciate it a lot. Hobbies and their costs, am I right?
|
|
Baethor
High Council
Duk'Rik of the Bri'Ak Duraz.
That which does not kill me, has made a tactical error
Posts: 2,234
|
Post by Baethor on Sept 23, 2010 10:43:33 GMT -5
indeed lol
i think tandy offers classes on leatherworking stuff, proper cutting, tooling, dyeing that sort of thing. but i will tell you MEASURE TWICE, if you have to guess, try to guess over, its much better having to shave an extra half inch here and there rather then have to add a half inch here or there lol
|
|
Batu
Servant
Patience. Discipline. Calculation. Honor.
Posts: 76
|
Post by Batu on Sept 23, 2010 20:17:33 GMT -5
indeed lol i think tandy offers classes on leatherworking stuff, proper cutting, tooling, dyeing that sort of thing. but i will tell you MEASURE TWICE, if you have to guess, try to guess over, its much better having to shave an extra half inch here and there rather then have to add a half inch here or there lol They offer large sheets of leather as opposed to Hobby Lobby's scraps, right?
|
|
Anvil
Moderator
Commander of the Defenders of the Land
Posts: 387
|
Post by Anvil on Sept 24, 2010 12:21:23 GMT -5
yup, whole and sides of the cow
|
|
Batu
Servant
Patience. Discipline. Calculation. Honor.
Posts: 76
|
Post by Batu on Sept 24, 2010 14:29:38 GMT -5
Now who might I contact in trying to process the leather before crafting it all together? Who has experience?
|
|
aros
New Member
Posts: 31
|
Post by aros on Oct 2, 2010 2:08:20 GMT -5
what are you looking to make first off is the question?
|
|
Batu
Servant
Patience. Discipline. Calculation. Honor.
Posts: 76
|
Post by Batu on Oct 2, 2010 12:25:05 GMT -5
|
|
Kotaro
Moderator
Supporter of Hammer Pants
Shogun
Posts: 1,174
|
Post by Kotaro on Oct 2, 2010 12:51:55 GMT -5
Your link is brokeded.
|
|
MacDimm
Meat Shield
Fearghus MacDimm of the White Bear Clan
Posts: 259
|
Post by MacDimm on Oct 9, 2010 9:59:00 GMT -5
For that you're going to want some fairly thin leather for the under layer, probably in the 4-5 oz range. Any thinner and it'll wear and crack too quickly, any thicker and you won't be able to move. I'd do straight up 12-13oz leather for the actual plates. Just cut yourself a template. If you're interested in making it a little more armor-y, I have some actual steel plates off my old brigandine set I'd be willing to sell you. 16 guage steel and have been through plenty of fights to prove their mettle (Ba doom cha!).
|
|
aros
New Member
Posts: 31
|
Post by aros on Oct 11, 2010 23:04:50 GMT -5
as for tools, some things you will need:
Rubber mallet Exact-o-knives leather shears mini anvil punches of various shape and size marker(s)
If i missed or something that you think needs to be added, feel free to say so.
Also, it may be easier to start off with a smaller project, like bracers, so that you get used to how leather works on a smaller project instead of a larger one.
|
|
MacDimm
Meat Shield
Fearghus MacDimm of the White Bear Clan
Posts: 259
|
Post by MacDimm on Oct 13, 2010 1:05:58 GMT -5
Aros's list may get you though, but after doing several commissioned pieces in addition to my own armor, I've come to some conclusions on the most BASIC tool/equipment list. You may want to add to this in time as I have.
1. I'd say skip the exacto and leather shears bedamned. If you're dealing with armor grade leather they don't work very well anyway. Get yourself a good cheap utility knife with a strong locking mechanism. And lots of extra blades. You'll go through them like no one's business on heavy leather. When I have to do major sections in 13-15 oz leather, i use a jigsaw at this point. Saves a lot of time.
2. If you really want to make sure your stuff holds together, get a couple bags of tubular rivets in different sizes and a setter. The setter for tube rivets is a little pricey, but it's worth while. Kwik rivets tend to bust when any amount of articulation and support is required in the long run, and chicago screws will cost you an arm and a leg. Save them for points of heavy articulation.
3.For setting rivets, you should really use a standard hammer rather than a wooden or rubber one. Setting rivets requires quite a bit of force, and you don't have to worry about the tip jumping if you align it properly. If you ever want to use the metal leather stamps to imprint designs on your leather, a rubber or wooden hammer will be the way to go.
4. Punches you'll need: -Mini and Maxi circular punch sets -Oblong punch for seating your belt buckles -Scratch Awl (get a sharp one made for leather work)
5. You're also going to need a way to seal your armor when it's done. Get dye in the color you want, and finish the project with either neatsfoot oil (if you want a soft and supple finish and soft leather) or Acrylic Resolene (if you want a shiny finish that will keep more rigidity). For dyeing, rubber gloves are a must, and stock up on the cotton-tipped applicators.
6. Other essentials: bottle of rubbing alcohol for cleaning up dye (HUGE time saver), a few sponges for wetting leather or applying dyes and finishes (one sponge per task, keep them seperate), and anything mentioned in Aros's list that I have not discussed here.
This list is pretty much the bare minimum of what you'll be needing to make functioning, basic armor that won't fall apart. If you get to a point where you want to make it pretty, I have a list of fit-and-finish tools and supplies that make a huge difference as well.
|
|
|
Post by Stubbie on Oct 13, 2010 6:31:56 GMT -5
^--This man above me, is a professional. I'm just spouting what a backyard armorer has found.
YMMV; but I find a 18mm snag off knife superior to a standard utility knife. Still goes through blades like no one's business and it takes several passes (score pass, cut pass, finish pass) but the longer blade gives me more control on the longer cuts.
Also an edge roller would be helpful. You plane the visible edge down and it's supposed to keep the leather from splitting along the grain. I think it helps, might be all in my head though.
When I dye, I've forsaken the cotton swabs / balls for clean shop rags / old towels / white T-shirts (something without dye itself). Seems to apply a more even finish and color depth than the cotton applicators that come with the dye bottles, IMO. And seal with just Kiwi shoe polish. Black for black dyes (or dye jobs you want darker) and a neutral can for other colors (it will slightly darken it up but not terribly.)
|
|
aros
New Member
Posts: 31
|
Post by aros on Oct 13, 2010 14:50:39 GMT -5
Aros's list may get you though, but after doing several commissioned pieces in addition to my own armor, I've come to some conclusions on the most BASIC tool/equipment list. You may want to add to this in time as I have. 1. I'd say skip the exacto and leather shears bedamned. If you're dealing with armor grade leather they don't work very well anyway. Get yourself a good cheap utility knife with a strong locking mechanism. And lots of extra blades. You'll go through them like no one's business on heavy leather. When I have to do major sections in 13-15 oz leather, i use a jigsaw at this point. Saves a lot of time. 2. If you really want to make sure your stuff holds together, get a couple bags of tubular rivets in different sizes and a setter. The setter for tube rivets is a little pricey, but it's worth while. Kwik rivets tend to bust when any amount of articulation and support is required in the long run, and chicago screws will cost you an arm and a leg. Save them for points of heavy articulation. 3.For setting rivets, you should really use a standard hammer rather than a wooden or rubber one. Setting rivets requires quite a bit of force, and you don't have to worry about the tip jumping if you align it properly. If you ever want to use the metal leather stamps to imprint designs on your leather, a rubber or wooden hammer will be the way to go. 4. Punches you'll need: -Mini and Maxi circular punch sets -Oblong punch for seating your belt buckles -Scratch Awl (get a sharp one made for leather work) 5. You're also going to need a way to seal your armor when it's done. Get dye in the color you want, and finish the project with either neatsfoot oil (if you want a soft and supple finish and soft leather) or Acrylic Resolene (if you want a shiny finish that will keep more rigidity). For dyeing, rubber gloves are a must, and stock up on the cotton-tipped applicators. 6. Other essentials: bottle of rubbing alcohol for cleaning up dye (HUGE time saver), a few sponges for wetting leather or applying dyes and finishes (one sponge per task, keep them seperate), and anything mentioned in Aros's list that I have not discussed here. This list is pretty much the bare minimum of what you'll be needing to make functioning, basic armor that won't fall apart. If you get to a point where you want to make it pretty, I have a list of fit-and-finish tools and supplies that make a huge difference as well. Thanks for the expanded items list. Being a novice myself, I sometimes I forget a few things or have to improvise to make due with the tools i have.
|
|
Batu
Servant
Patience. Discipline. Calculation. Honor.
Posts: 76
|
Post by Batu on Oct 13, 2010 19:49:37 GMT -5
Where might I look to get these supplieses?
|
|
aros
New Member
Posts: 31
|
Post by aros on Oct 13, 2010 23:10:09 GMT -5
Tandy
|
|
MacDimm
Meat Shield
Fearghus MacDimm of the White Bear Clan
Posts: 259
|
Post by MacDimm on Oct 15, 2010 15:20:04 GMT -5
Edge roller is incredibly helpful, but i include it more in my "make it pretty" category, along with an edge beveler and some other tools. I've never gotten into the shoe polish thing because it seems to wear off more over time. I stick mostly to acrylic resolene because it lasts for just about forever. All a matter of preference though. I'll look into your knife suggestionl. I've really grown to prefer a folder utility knife duct-taped into the open position. It provides more edge to work with than a standard utility knife and a better degree of control as well. I normally apply my dye with the "large" size applicators and then buff/spread the dye from there with a shop rag or T-shirt, but for any pieces smaller than a chest or back plate it doesn't seem to matter too much after you get the acyrlic resolene on.
|
|
|
Post by Stubbie on Oct 15, 2010 17:58:36 GMT -5
You're right, the shoe polish seems to need reapplied after a good days fighting or every other light use, and it'll rub off, but $8 put in. Not sure how expensive the acrylic is.
Cutting implements is highly personal. A friend I smith with can't use any knife to save his life, but some good shears and he's a master.
Yeah, if you're just doing a small piece, the applicators work very well. I only go rag if I'm doing greeves or the like size.
|
|
Batu
Servant
Patience. Discipline. Calculation. Honor.
Posts: 76
|
Post by Batu on Oct 15, 2010 23:35:37 GMT -5
Who might be able to dedicate just a little time to maybe show me some basics?
Or my next question becomes, suppose I become lazy, don't trust my own ability, or whatever...
Who would I want to construct my armor, how long might it take, and how much might it cost for labor?
|
|
MacDimm
Meat Shield
Fearghus MacDimm of the White Bear Clan
Posts: 259
|
Post by MacDimm on Oct 16, 2010 10:38:29 GMT -5
I'd love to help you out with it but really don't have the time at the moment (working 7 days a week).
Acrylic Resolene is cheaper than shoe polish. It's normally the same price as a bottle of dye, and covers about 2-3x as much leather as said bottle of dye. Once it's set in and been buffed out to the desired amount of shine, it lasts pretty much forever. Follow the instructions on it to a T though, because if you use too much you end up with a streaky, sticky mess. I always use a rag or cloth to apply the resolene to avoid steaks.
|
|
Batu
Servant
Patience. Discipline. Calculation. Honor.
Posts: 76
|
Post by Batu on Oct 18, 2010 21:48:26 GMT -5
Another thing I thought of how would I rivet the plates to the inner parts of the leather? Are the punches like a leather hole punch or is it a piece that I hammer through the leather to get the hole I need?
|
|
aros
New Member
Posts: 31
|
Post by aros on Oct 18, 2010 22:18:35 GMT -5
you hole punch the hole that you will need, then you set the rivet
|
|
|
Post by Stubbie on Oct 18, 2010 22:48:14 GMT -5
|
|